Victory Suites Gibraltar

The Gibraltar Neanderthal Skull History Forgot, and the Name the Rock Nearly Gave the Species

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In 1848 Gibraltar found the first adult Neanderthal skull and filed it in a library cupboard. Busk and Falconer wanted to call the species Homo calpicus. Germany got there first.

In 1848 a quarryman's blast on the north face of the Rock loosened a near complete human skull from the limestone. It was carried into town, shown to a small scientific society, and labelled with a phrase that now reads like a joke at history's expense: an ancient human, died before the universal flood. Then it was shut in a cupboard at the Garrison Library and forgotten.

Inside that cupboard sat the first adult Neanderthal skull ever found. Gibraltar had it in hand eight years before the German valley that would lend the species its name gave up a single bone. For well over a decade nobody knew what they were looking at, and by the time anyone did, the naming was settled elsewhere.

This is also the year to write it down. 2026 is the centenary of Gibraltar's second Neanderthal, and the museum has spent the year marking it.

A skull from the north face of the Rock

Forbes Quarry sits on the northern flank of the Rock, near what is now Devils Tower Road. In the 1840s it was a working limestone quarry, and blasting for Gibraltar's building works regularly turned up ancient bone cemented into the stone. The caves and fissures of the Rock are thick with this material, the slow accumulation of tens of thousands of years sealed into rock. The quarry site is now listed by the Ministry for Heritage as the place of the first Neanderthal skull find.

Among the finds was a remarkably complete adult skull with an unusually well preserved face. It was presented to the Gibraltar Scientific Society on 3 March 1848 by the society's secretary, Lieutenant Edmund Henry Rene Flint. Sources disagree on which service he belonged to, and we have not been able to settle it, so this page says Lieutenant and stops there. The record of that meeting is the only firm trace of the skull for years afterwards. No fanfare. No sense that a window onto a vanished kind of human had just swung open.

Why nobody recognised it

To be fair to the men of 1848, they had no framework for what lay on the table. The idea of an extinct, earlier form of humanity was not yet part of accepted science. Darwin would not publish On the Origin of Species until 1859. The word Neanderthal did not exist. There was no comparative collection of ancient human bone to measure the skull against, because there were, in effect, no others.

So it was filed as a curiosity: an old skull of uncertain age, interesting but not revolutionary. The note that went with it put it inside a biblical timescale rather than a prehistoric one. Then the cupboard closed, and science spent the next decade and a half assembling the questions the skull could have answered.

There is a practical consequence that still bites. Nobody recorded where in the quarry it came from or what lay above and below it, so the stratigraphy that would date it was destroyed along with the rock face. The Natural History Museum puts it at roughly 50,000 years old while saying plainly that the dating is not very precise. That is not scientists hedging. It is the permanent cost of a find made with a blasting charge and written up as a curio.

The German valley that took the name

In August 1856 workmen clearing the Kleine Feldhofer Grotte in the Neander Valley, east of Dusseldorf, uncovered a skullcap and limb bones. A local schoolteacher, Johann Carl Fuhlrott, saw that these were not the bones of an ordinary modern human and passed them to the anatomist Hermann Schaaffhausen.

Those remains, now Neanderthal 1, became the type specimen: the reference point for the whole species. The Irish geologist William King proposed the name Homo neanderthalensis in 1863 and 1864, basing it squarely on the German find. A valley near Dusseldorf gave its name to a people who had ranged across Europe and well beyond, including the very Rock where the 1848 skull still lay unread in a cupboard.

The name Gibraltar nearly got

The turning point came after Origin of Species lit a fresh interest in fossil humans. In 1862 the palaeontologists George Busk and Hugh Falconer studied the skull during a visit to Gibraltar, and they took it seriously. They reported on it to the British Association for the Advancement of Science in 1864, and in that report they proposed the name Homo calpicus, after Mons Calpe, the ancient name for the Rock. Darwin and Thomas Huxley examined the skull and concluded it belonged to an extinct human species. Darwin gave it a single passing mention in The Descent of Man in 1871.

Homo calpicus never stuck. The German find had priority and Neanderthal was already rooted. Had timing fallen differently we might speak of Calpican rather than Neanderthal people, and a Gibraltar quarry rather than a German valley would sit in every textbook. The science went the other way. The fossil lost none of its weight.

Gibraltar held the first adult Neanderthal skull in a cupboard, mislabelled and unread, through exactly the years in which the world decided who these people were and what to call them.

What the skull actually is, and what DNA added

The specimen is Gibraltar 1, the skull of an adult Neanderthal woman, the first adult Neanderthal skull ever found. Its completeness, and that preserved face, make it one of the most important Neanderthal specimens anywhere. The original is in the Human Evolution gallery of the Natural History Museum in London. A cast is on display at the Gibraltar National Museum, which is the one most visitors will actually see.

In July 2019 a team working with the museum and the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology published a genetic analysis of the Gibraltar Neanderthals in PNAS. They recovered large portions of the mitochondrial genome from the Forbes Quarry individual, and nuclear coverage confirmed what anatomy had suggested: she was female. The Natural History Museum's summary of the work notes that she sits genetically closer to older Neanderthals of roughly 60,000 to 120,000 years ago from across Europe and western Asia than to the later Neanderthals of Iberia.

The honest part of that paper is the contamination. A skull handled by Victorian gentlemen, carried between cities and displayed for a century and a half is coated in modern human DNA. Mitochondrial contamination in the Forbes Quarry sample ran at about 46 percent before filtering, and around 15 percent in the deaminated fraction the team could trust. Getting a result at all took that filtering. A skull pulled blindly from a quarry in 1848 is still answering questions its finders could not have framed, but only just.

A timeline of the forgotten find

YearEvent
1848Gibraltar 1 presented to the Gibraltar Scientific Society on 3 March by Lt Edmund Rene Flint, then filed in a cupboard at the Garrison Library
1856Neanderthal 1 found in the Neander Valley, Germany, and recognised as something other than a modern human
1859Darwin publishes On the Origin of Species
1862Busk and Falconer study the Gibraltar skull during a visit to the Rock
1863 to 1864William King names Homo neanderthalensis from the German type specimen
1864Busk and Falconer report to the British Association and propose Homo calpicus for the Gibraltar skull
1926Dorothy Garrod recovers the Devil's Tower child, Gibraltar 2, on 11 June
2016Gorham's Cave Complex inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
2019Ancient DNA recovered from both Gibraltar Neanderthals
2026Centenary of the Devil's Tower discovery marked across the year

The centenary nobody outside Gibraltar noticed

The 1848 skull was not an isolated freak of the Rock. In 1926 the archaeologist Dorothy Garrod, later the first woman to hold a professorship at Cambridge, excavated a rock shelter at Devil's Tower and recovered five skull fragments of a Neanderthal child. Her excavation ran from November 1925 to January 1927, and the Gibraltar National Museum marks 11 June 1926 as the discovery day.

The child was about four or five years old at death, and the 2019 DNA work established that this one was a boy. Since the forensic reconstruction by Kennis and Kennis, he has been known as Flint. So the Rock has given up two faces: an adult woman from a quarry blast, and a small boy from a rock shelter, who lived and died here when the Mediterranean lapped a very different shore.

His age in the ground is as unsettled as hers. The 1926 colonial report called the skull at least 20,000 years old on the strength of the Mousterian tools found with it. Current estimates run to roughly 40,000 years, and the Natural History Museum is candid that real uncertainties remain about both partial skulls.

2026 is the hundredth year since that find, and the museum has treated it properly rather than quietly. The centenary programme ran a themed open day in May, a lecture series at John Mackintosh Hall, new displays, a book by Dr Alex Menez on Garrod and the Devil's Tower skull, and a children's book about Flint by Professor Geraldine Finlayson. The Calpe Conference from 1 to 6 September carried the centenary too, and doubled as ten years of World Heritage status. If you are visiting while the centenary displays are still up, the museum is not an optional extra on this trail. It is the trail.

Gibraltar as a Neanderthal heartland

Gibraltar was one of the last refuges of the Neanderthals in Europe. The Gorham's Cave Complex on the steep eastern cliffs was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2016, at the 40th session of the World Heritage Committee in Istanbul, and it was Gibraltar's first site on the list. It preserves evidence of Neanderthal life across an immense span, including signs that these people took birds and marine animals and cut abstract engravings into the cave floor. Our post on the engraving in Gorham's Cave goes into that find.

One detail from the inscription is worth knowing, because it says something about where you are. The nomination went in as Gibraltar Neanderthal Caves and Environments and was renamed Gorham's Cave Complex after Spain raised concerns. Even the prehistory here is subject to the politics of the frontier.

For anyone drawn to human origins, Gibraltar is not a footnote. Two named individuals, a World Heritage cave complex, and a 178 year argument about who gets the credit, inside 6.7 square kilometres.

Walking the prehistory trail today

You can build a real day out of these threads, and the order matters. Start at the Gibraltar National Museum in the town centre, where the skull's story and the cast of Gibraltar 1 are, because without that context the rest is just scenery. Then look up at the north face toward Forbes Quarry near Devils Tower Road. The quarry is an industrial corner of the Rock rather than a polished attraction, and we would rather tell you that than let you arrive expecting a visitor centre. Standing near it, knowing what came out of that ground, is still worth the detour.

The headline experience is the Gorham's Cave Complex itself. Access is by guided tour led by the museum's World Heritage team, numbers are tightly limited, and you should book well ahead through the museum or VisitGibraltar's World Heritage listing. Do not turn up hoping.

One planning note that catches people out. The cable car is closed for a full rebuild and is expected to reopen in 2027, so the Upper Rock means walking up or taking a licensed Rock taxi tour, and you should allow more time than older guides assume. Our Rock of Gibraltar guide and our piece on the Barbary macaques weave the natural history into the human story, and our 48 hours in Gibraltar itinerary fits the caves, the town and the summit into a weekend.

Stand near Forbes Quarry knowing the first adult Neanderthal skull came out of that ground, and Gibraltar stops feeling small.

Staying where the trail begins

Victory Suites is 100+ apartments on Devils Tower Road, which puts it a short walk from the north face where the 1848 skull was prised out of the Rock. Forbes Quarry is close enough to see. The Gibraltar National Museum and the cast of Gibraltar 1 are about ten minutes on foot near Grand Casemates Square, and we are minutes from the airport terminal, so you can land and be standing where the human story took one of its strangest turns inside the hour.

Each apartment has a full kitchen, which matters more than it sounds on a day that starts early for a cave tour. We book across 300+ channels or direct with us. If you want the museum, the quarry and a Gorham's Cave tour in a sensible order, message us on WhatsApp before you come and we will tell you what is actually bookable that week, including when it is not.

Frequently asked questions

Was the first Neanderthal skull found in Gibraltar or Germany?

Both claims are true in different senses, which is why the story gets muddled. Gibraltar produced the first adult Neanderthal skull, at Forbes Quarry in 1848, eight years before the Neander Valley find in Germany. But the German remains, Neanderthal 1, were recognised for what they were and became the type specimen that gave the species its name in 1864. Gibraltar had the fossil first and the understanding second.

Where is the Gibraltar 1 skull now, and can I see it?

The original is in the Human Evolution gallery of the Natural History Museum in London, not in Gibraltar. A cast is on display at the Gibraltar National Museum in the town centre, which is what you will see on the Rock. If seeing the actual fossil matters to you, that is a trip to South Kensington rather than to Gibraltar.

How old is the Forbes Quarry skull?

Nobody can say precisely. The Natural History Museum puts it at roughly 50,000 years while stating that the dating is not very precise. The reason is that in 1848 nobody recorded where in the quarry it came from or what lay above and below it, so the stratigraphic evidence that would date it was destroyed with the rock face. Any page giving you a confident single figure is overstating what is known.

What did the 2019 DNA study of the Gibraltar Neanderthals find?

A team working with the Natural History Museum and the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology recovered ancient DNA from both Gibraltar fossils and published in PNAS in July 2019. It confirmed the Forbes Quarry adult was female and the Devil's Tower child was male, and placed her genetically closer to older Neanderthals from Europe and western Asia than to later Iberian ones. Modern human contamination was heavy and had to be filtered out.

Could Neanderthals have been called Calpicans instead?

Very nearly. When George Busk and Hugh Falconer reported the Gibraltar skull to the British Association in 1864 they proposed the name Homo calpicus, after Mons Calpe, the ancient name for the Rock. It did not stick, because William King had already named Homo neanderthalensis from the German type specimen and that name had priority and momentum.

What is the 2026 Gibraltar Neanderthal centenary?

It marks one hundred years since Dorothy Garrod recovered the Devil's Tower child, Gibraltar 2, which the Gibraltar National Museum dates to 11 June 1926. The museum programmed the year with a themed open day, a lecture series at John Mackintosh Hall, new displays, a book by Dr Alex Menez and a children's book about the child, who is known as Flint after the Kennis and Kennis reconstruction.

Can I visit Forbes Quarry itself?

Not as an attraction. It is an industrial part of the north face near Devils Tower Road, listed by the Ministry for Heritage as a heritage site but not developed for visitors, with no centre, no interpretation boards and nothing to go inside. You can see the north face and stand close to where the skull came out. Treat it as a place to look at rather than a place to tour, and get the story at the museum first.

Is Gorham's Cave open to visitors?

Yes, but only on a guided tour led by the Gibraltar National Museum's World Heritage team, and places are tightly limited. Book well in advance through the museum rather than planning to arrive and join one. The complex was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2016 and remains Gibraltar's only World Heritage listing.

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